Gucci

　　American rapper Soulja Boy Tell’em, who previously topped international charts with his Grammy-nominated single “Crank That,” is planning to release a book the same day as his upcoming album The DeAndre Way is set to go on sale, the rapper told MTV News in an interview published September 1. Both the album and the book, Teenage Millionaire, are expected out in November.

　　At 16, the rapper became the youngest person in nearly two decades to write, perform, and produce a number-one song on the US Billboard Hot 100 for his single “Crank That.”

　　Teenage Millionaire, according to Soulja Boy, will tell the story of how the rapper earned his first million dollars at 17 years old (he is now 20).

　　”I talk about how my life changed. It talks about the music industry, everything I learned about the music industry – how I got into the music industry with my mind set, all the ins and outs that I go through,” Soulja Boy told MTV.

　　The first single from The DeAndre Way, “Pretty Boy Swag,” is currently at number 12 on Billboard’s R&B/Hip-Hop Songs chart. The album follows the rapper’s 2008 LP iSouljaBoyTellem, which hit number 2 on the US Billboard Top Rap Albums chart and featured collaborations with Gucci Mane and Sean Kingston. Gucci Mane, Birdman, and Justin Bieber have all reportedly contributed to the new album.

　　Soulja Boy joins a number of rappers who have published their memoirs, including Snoop Doggy Dogg, LL Cool J, and Eminem. Among other upcoming titles by rap artists: Jay-Z is rumored to be working on both a traditional memoir and a business title and is due to publish a book about his lyrics in November.

　　Both The DeAndre Way and Teenage Millionaire are currently scheduled for release on November 2.

　　A new business has emerged thanks to the fashion aspirations of Indians in small towns. Some online shopping sites are bringing national and global luxury brands within the reach of these people at throwaway prices.

　　A couple of years ago, 34-year-old Pankaj Maithil, a businessman and also a collector of designer perfumes from Indore, had to travel abroad or to Delhi to add volumes to his collection.

　　Today, the best fragrances from around the world are just a mouse click away from him. Thanks to the boom in online shopping sites.

　　Inder Goyal, a 42-year-old engineer from Jodhpur, loves to indulge in buying high-end labels like Versace and Armani and Gucci. And now, living in a Tier-2 city he fulfils his passion of following the global trends with the help of his laptop.

　　For Frainy Singh, former Mrs India and now settled in Chandigarh, online shopping is a blessing. Earlier, she had to make frequent shopping trips to bigger cities to maintain her glamorous lifestyle. Now she can do the same even without stepping out of her home.

　　All this has been made possible by a gamut of online fashion retail web sites that have been launched in India in the last couple of years.

　　Both Indian and international luxury brands can be bought at throwaway prices on these sites. Fashionandyou, 99labels, Brandmile, DesiCouture and Privatesales are some names that are getting popular among the fashion-conscious Indians.

　　These sites also offer good discounts for the customers. Davidoff Cool Water perfume priced at Rs 4,000 can be grabbed at Rs 1,800, a Calvin Klein dress priced at Rs 7,000 is available for Rs 3,000 and Polo Ralph Lauren T-Shirts with a regular price range of Rs 4,000-5,000 can be bought for less than Rs 2,000.

　　Fashion is in the midst of a swingeing change of proportions and garment-choice this autumn. It’s obvious which clothes are in favour: trousers and coats, blouses and jackets, knitwear and skirts – that is, separates, not dresses. This has been bruited as a “return” to minimalism and a great thing for a grown woman’s sanity. We’re promised we’ll be able to bound out looking effortlessly co-ordinated, while radiating dignity and competence. We will, but only, I’ve realised, after we’ve tackled the hellish confusion of this season’s heels.

　　“Effortless” is hardly the way to describe the search for footwear to match this season’s trousers and longer skirts. I discovered this after trotting off to Selfridges’s new gigantic shoe world (eight rooms, 11 individual branded boutiques, hundreds of shoes and boots to try on), where I imagined I’d be in danger of spending far more than I ought. An hour and a half later, I was back on Oxford Street, empty-handed, fuming over the fact that most footwear design hasn’t yet caught up with the leading edge of fashion.

　　All I gleaned from that wasted trip was the realisation that the monstrous platforms and rock-chick shoe-boots slavishly worn with the short dresses and leggings of the past few years are still endemic. Just looking at them makes me nauseous. Needless to say, they’re wrong with this season’s trousers and mid-calf skirts, which happens to be all I want to wear.

　　Thrashing out what’s right has taken a hell of a time. This is due, partly, I admit, to the wrench it takes to break a fashion addiction built up over years: the plus side of elevated heels was feeling six inches taller and skinnier. When stepping into this season’s anti-platform, non-statement shoes, there’s that fear to conquer; with these new silhouettes, frumpier and dumpier must be circumnavigated.

　　Having scrutinised all the catwalk shows that featured trousers and longer skirts, I pulled out everything in my wardrobe that resembled them, plus all the shoes I’ve accumulated over 10 years. And now I have conclusions: when you whittle it down, there are two types of footwear necessary to make this season’s clothes viable – a pair of pointy stilettoes and some sort of block-heeled boots.

　　Trousers are the tricky part, because they come in three shapes:

　　1) Wide-legged. Footwear appears not to matter with these pants, because the point is that the hem covers the shoe, thus making it invisible, except when walking. That means you can take advantage of the old Seventies leg-lengthening illusion: high, stack-heeled boots or platforms, but roundish or squared in the toe, not pointed. You could also wear socks with an old pair of chunky sandals – the point is to cover and de-emphasise foot-awareness. (Study: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Marc Jacobs, Dries Van Noten.)

　　2) Boot-cut. This Nineties’ revival takes finessing. It needs streamlined, narrow-heeled boots with a slightly pointed toe, probably in suede. Frida Giannini at Gucci styled her revived boot-legs with open-toed sandals and black tights. (Study: Balmain, Gucci.)

　　3) Narrow-leg, cropped. For women who’ve been living in leggings, these slim trousers might seem the easiest segue into a new look. The key is to ditch those grotesque “statement” shoes and invest in pointed stilettos to wear to reveal chicly bared ankles. The most versatile and flattering height is around three inches, the über-ideal being a pair of Manolo Blahnik’s timeless spindly-heeled suede courts. Alternatively, there’s the rockabilly way to do it, as exemplified by Isabel Marant’s Fifties pointed courts with cropped jeans – how right they are is testified by the fact that they sold out by mid-August. (Study: Stella McCartney, Gucci, Isabel Marant.)

　　What to wear with new-length skirts:

　　1) The Fifties-look circle. The obvious companion for the belled, petticoated skirt is the “petite stiletto” or a 1.5-inch Louis heel with a point decorated with a bow. At the designer end, Tabitha Simmons and Giambattista Valli have mouth-watering evening options, and at the other, Marks & Spencer has a £15 patent version and New Look, one by Giles Deacon at £24.99. Close study of the Louis Vuitton pumps shows they, in fact, have a high- stacked heel rather than a stiletto. (Study: Prada, Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten.)

　　2) Below-knee A-line. A skirt with which both the pointed stiletto and the block-heeled boot work, thus side-stepping the frump issue. There are subtle differences within A-line, though. As a rule of thumb, if it’s bias-cut, sinuous, tending towards the Thirties, wear the stiletto. If it’s stiff and skewing Seventies, use the chunky-heeled boots.

　　Australian actress Rose Byrne took a sultry turn on the red carpet at Sunday evening’s Primetime Emmy Awards, striking her poses in a white gown by Gucci.

　　The gown, with its metallic ribbon accents and strategic cut-outs, looked particularly regal when paired with Ms. Byrne’s towering updo. While not everyone will love the volume in Rose’s look, it does suit the dress, and makes her silhouette even more slender. It all looks like something Elizabeth Taylor might have worn in her Cleopatra days.

　　Awards shows mean only one thing for us at NT’s fashion headquarters – the Red Carpet. And at last night’s 62nd Primetime Emmy Awards, there were quite a few on the carpet who didn’t deserve any bling.

　　Kicking off the fashion show was the lovely Lea Michele from “Glee” – Lea’s fashion choices on the carpet are always the opposite of what Rachel Berry would wear, and she vamped it up with a midnight blue Oscar de la Renta with a stunning flamenco-style tail. But although we’re big fan of Oscar de la Renta and this dress is gorgeous, it’s a little too much for Lea’s fun, youthful vibe. She’s only 24, so there was no need to wear such a fussy dress.

　　Midnight blue was definitely the new black on the red carpet. “30 Rock’s” Jane Krakowski looked stunning in a custom-made Escada one-shoulder while Jayma Mays (“Glee”) opted for a strapless flowing Burberry midnight blue number. “Modern Family’s” Julie Bowen also opted for a midnight blue J. Mendel dress with structured detailing around the bust. Teamed with vertiginous heels and sparkling jewelry, the midnight blue trend was sophisticated and sexy on the red carpet and Lea lead the pack.

　　In stark comparison to the midnight blue, the younger starlets opted for Grecian style white dresses. Kim Kardashian forged the path with a white Marchesa figure-hugging gown teamed with a Lorraine Schwartz cuff with Amber Riley following suit in a Melissa Masse dress that flattered her curves. Rose Byrne wore a gorgeous Gucci Grecian dress with Gucci platforms that highlighted the trend perfectly. “Modern Family’s” Sarah Hyland opted for a silver low-cut Pamella Roland dress that may have been a little too grown-up for her, but I liked her choice to wear silver and stand out.

　　In between the midnight blue and white color spectrum were the champagne tones and lavender dresses. “True Blood’s” Nina Dobrev picked a one-shoulder figure-hugging Zuhair Murad nude-tone dress and singer Jewel also opted for a similar style by the same designer. Sofia Vergara reigned in her ample assets in a sparkling Carolina Herrera pale yellow strapless number with a mermaid tail.

　　”Glee’s” Jane Lynch looked great in her one shoulder purple taffeta gown by Ali Rahimi, a refreshing change for Sue Sylvester’s Adidas track-suit. Emily Deschanel also opted for a one-shoulder purple number by Max Azria Atelier which served the purpose nicely, but looked a little too Marchesa-esque for my liking.

　　While Lea, Jayma and Jane looked lovely on the red carpet, the other “Glee” girls didn’t fare so well. “Glee’s” darling Dianna Agron looked overdone and frumpy in a layered, ruffled, lace mess by Carolina Herrera, and while she always looks stunning, the dress was just horrible on her. Naya Rivera’s deep green Vera Wang gown looked like it was out of a prom dress catalogue and her hair was another major mishap. Jenna Ushkowitz and Jessalyn Gilsig opted for red dresses by Kevin Hall and Nicole Miller respectively – but someone needs to tell these ladies that they’re meant to walk the red carpet, not wear it.

　　The biggest misses of the night would have to go to “Mad Men’s” Christina Hendricks, Keri Russell, Mindy Kaling and Emily Blunt. Christina’s hour-glass figure has been quite the debate in recent news, and she opted for lavender Zac Posen chiffon number with a v-neck and ruffled sleeve-caps. The color served to wash her out, and the dress was beyond unflattering realms – a complete disaster. John Krasinski’s new wife, Emily Blunt, opted for pastel lavender Christian Dior with white flower details, that washed her out on the red carpet, especially next to the tanned Hollywood starlets surrounding her. Keri Russell decided a vintage Scherrer hot pink low cut dress was a good choice apparently (unless you’re under 21 or over 65, stay away from the hot pink). Mindy Kaling may be funny on “The Office”, but her dress at the Emmys was no laughing matter. She looked like she purchased her dress for her Halloween costume as a wicked witch, and decided it could double as an Emmy look – which is a shame, because “The Office” actress is gorgeous. Lauren Graham also managed to get it wrong with her black and white geometric Yigal Azrouël gown – while this dress could have worked on a young starlet, on Lauren it looked sloppy and a little too mutton-dressed-as-lamb.

　　January Jones was at the height of the critic’s debate, with her electric blue strapless Atelier Versace hoop-skirted dress. We at the NT office were also torn – I loved her choice to be bold and risky on the red carpet and by teaming her dress with Miu Miu heels, she is a fashionista’s dream. But others felt that while the Atelier Versace looks incredible on a runway, it might have been over the top and out of place on the red carpet. Tina Fey’s Oscar de la Renta dress was also on the debate table – some liked it for de la Renta’s classic sophistication while others thought it was boring – but after the Golden Globes disaster, Tina was sure to stay safe this time on the red carpet.

　　Two favorites of the night were Kyra Sedgewick and Claire Danes. Kyra, which picked up the Best Drama Actress accolade for “The Closer”, picked a strapless plum Monique L’Hullier gown and teamed it with loose waves and radiant makeup. Claire, who won an Emmy for her portrayal of Temple Grandin, also dazzled on the red carpet with a simple, classy sparkling champagne pink Armani Privé strapless dress and blonde locks. And while they both got Emmys for their well-deserved talent, we at NT are awarding them the best-dressed award for wowing us on the red carpet.

　　They may not be as well crafted as the real thing or look as good.

　　But according to a new report published yesterday fake designer goods are not all that bad.

　　In fact, top designer labels such as Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci can actually benefit from it, it says.

　　Boost: Designer fashion houses such as Louis Vuitton can benefit from the sale of counterfeit products, according to a new study

　　The EU-funded study, co-written by a Home Office advisor, even suggests that the estimated losses to the designer industry are greatly exaggerated.

　　Most of those who buy fakes would never pay for the real thing anyway, they concluded.

　　And the knock-off goods at knock-down prices have improved in quality ‘greatly’ and can actually promote the brands they try to imitate, it found.

　　The trade in counterfeit goods is now a multi-billion pound industry and is estimated to be worth £1.3 billion in the UK alone.

　　But whilst critics question the origins and legality of their goods the report calls on the police to stop wasting their time with the bootleggers.

　　Professor David Wall, who co-authored the report and advises the government on crime, said the real cost to the luxury goods industry could be one-fifth of previously calculated figures.

　　’It’s probably even less,’ he said yesterday. ‘There is also evidence that it actually helps the brands, by quickening the fashion cycle and raising brand awareness.’

　　He added: ‘We should be focusing on the trade in counterfeit drugs, dodgy aircraft parts and other stuff that really causes public harm.

　　’At a time when there is no more public resources for police, and they are being asked to do more, law enforcement should be focusing on other things.’

　　In the UK, it is illegal to sell fake goods but not against the law to buy them. However, tourists caught buying fake goods abroad can be prosecuted.

　　In France, for example, the maximum fine for buying fake goods is 300,000 euros (£246,000) or three years in jail.

　　Holidaymakers are also face having counterfeit purchases seized at ports and airports as they return to Britain, if they are detected by the UK Border Agency.

　　The report, for the British Journal of Criminology, estimates that up to three million consumers every year buy counterfeit goods.

　　Nearly a third of the sales are now over the internet.

　　Prof Wall, from the University of Durham, said that most consumers are savvy when it comes to buying off the black market and, in fact, welcome the choice it offers.

　　’I've just come back from Corfu and I saw Breitling watches being sold for ten euros (£8),’ he said. ‘No one in their right mind will think that is a real Breitling watch.’

　　The report concludes that it should be up to the industry to stop the trade and not the police.

　　There is ‘little public interest support for using public funds for policing and prosecuting the commissioning and manufacture of counterfeits’, it argues.

　　But police and leading designer brands last night rejected the study’s findings.

　　A spokesman for Louis Vuitton said: ‘The sale of counterfeit goods is a serious offence whose revenue funds criminal organisations at the expense of consumers, companies and governments.’

　　A spokesman for Burberry said: ‘Counterfeiting is taken extremely seriously. Where a case is proved, Burberry will always push for the maximum penalty.’

　　The Association of Chief Police Officers (ACPO) insisted that far from making consumers happy faking fashion goods was ‘not a victimless crime’.

　　’Businesses, individuals, and the public purse all suffer as a result of such activities,’ said a spokesman.

　　Frank Miller has produced a commercial for the new Gucci fragrance, ‘Guilty’. The film noir (with splashes of color) style commercial stars Evan Rachel Wood and Chris Evans, with a soundtrack by Friendly Fires. While a trailer for the commercial is currently available on YouTube, the full commercial will premiere during the MTV Video Music Awards on September 12th.

　　The director’s credibility, coupled with the sex appeal of the stars and concept should raise curiosity for the premiere of the branded entertainment concept. While this brand and category are known for using a ’sex sells’ approach, it will be interesting to see if the premiere benefits sales of the brand’s new perfume – as well as MTV’s ratings.

　　Yesterday, we got a sneak preview of Gucci’s upcoming fragrance, Gucci Guilty. We learned about the scent’s composition, the inspiration from Streisand and the Frank Miller-directed TV commercial starring Evan Rachel Wood.

　　The fragrance: The top notes are mandarin and pink peppercorn; middle notes are fruit and lavender; and base notes are amber and patchouli. It smells good, but the amber and patchouli are a little much for me, personally.

　　The name: Apparently, Gucci creative director Frida Giannini is a big Streisand fan. The name “Guilty” came to her while she was in her car listening to a Streisand song of the same name. Another source of inspiration for the fragrance? The cover of the 1976 film A Star Is Born starring Streisand and Kris Kristofferson. In fact the resemblance to the print ad is almost striking (see above).

　　The bottle: The bottle is awesome. It’s Gucci’s first perfume bottle to feature the interlocking G’s and it almost looks like it’s hollow from the front while the liquid is more visible from the sides. It’s simple and chic, has a retro/art deco feel and would just look really pretty on top of my dresser.

　　The ad campaign: Apparently, Gucci Guilty’s ad campaign is the brand’s biggest ever. As you may know, a 30-second trailer started buzzing around the internet a week or so ago for Frank Miller’s Gucci Guilty, which will debut as a 60-second commercial on September 12th during the MTV Video Music Awards. The short film was shot in front of a green screen in Fellini’s studio in Rome. We got to see a slightly racier version yesterday and let’s just say you get to see more than just a couple of silhouettes undressing. We also learned that all of the tattoos are Evan’s own.

　　The casting: Frida wanted a girl who embodied the idea of the “Guilty” character, which is basically girly with a sexy edge (hence the “guilt”). As far as the choice of Chris Evans, whose last name happens to be his love interest’s first, they mentioned something about all these super hero movies he’s starring in; so perhaps that’s the direction they wanted to go in with the character.

　　Gucci Guilty will hit stores in mid-September and will include a lotion, shower gel and shimmer powder. We’re not sure on the price, but it will be tough to call this one a guilt-free purchase!

　　Mark Lee was tapped by the Barneys New York to becoming the next new CEO of its company, reported Tuesday.

　　After his work as a boss in Gucci, Mark Lee, a 47-year-old business man, has finally gotten his next job in the Barneys New York.

　　After years of having been experienced financial downfall with its economy, Barneys has found the answer to the uprising of Barneys’ soon-to-come success in Mark Lee.

　　In a report by The Post last June, Barneys was expected to be losing $60 million this year, including a loss during the crucial holiday shopping season.

　　Barneys is hopeful that Mark Lee can take the company “to even greater prominence”.

　　However, industry sources believed that Mark Lee lacks the experience and connections to oversee the overhaul of the troubled retailer like that of Barneys—which operates and distributes too many kinds of brands.

　　As said by one of the senior apparel executive, “In women’s apparel, they don’t have power brands like Chanel that drive in the lucrative 50-year-plus customers… In men’s, they’ve lost out to Saks and Neiman when it comes to selling the top labels like Brioni and Kiton”

　　During the 1990s, Barneys transformed itself into a venue for younger fashionistas. As the years gone by, Barneys was able to start adding up stores in cities such as Dallas, Boston, and Seattle.

　　As stated by Andy Watson, Istithmar World CEO and also the chairman of Barneys, owners must check to build the brand and maximize its existing strong platform for growth.

　　Frank Miller used to be a guy that I had a lot of respect for. That was before he served as a one-man demolition crew to the memory of Will Eisner’s Spirit. His film adaptation of the once-respected comic book series is one of the greatest atrocities committed to film, pretty much guaranteeing that the fedora-wearing avenger will never get a fair shake at the silver screen.

　　From now on, Miller needs to stick to the things that he knows: comic books and commercials. While you may have to wait a bit for Miller’s next foray into the former, we’ve got the scoop on the latter. Combining 10% live action and his trademark 90% animation, Miller gives both guys and girls something to rejoice about with revealing looks at Evan Rachel Wood and Chris Evans in the new Gucci commercial. It only runs 33 seconds, but that’s about all of Miller’s direction people with taste can stand anyway.